Diagnostics & Repair

Diagnostics and Repairs at Drury Lane Service Station

If your engine management light comes on it’s not always as drastic as you may first think. We have no problem in letting our customers see exactly what the diagnostic results are and we will sit down and explain everything to you without any obligation.

When your car operates at optimum performance levels you will save fuel and reduce the exhaust pollution – helping both your pocket and the environment.

Whether you drive a Ford, BMW, Mercedes, Renault, Nissan, Lexus, Audi,  4 wheel drive (4×4), front wheel drive, rear wheel drive, petrol, diesel or electric you can be confident in the knowledge that we have a machine that can diagnose your faults and we have the expertly trained staff to fix it.

We are able to offer a diagnostic service for over 95% of vehicles. We can offer a diagnostic check only and give you a printed report or we can do the job from start to finish for you. Modern cars can have up to 40 computers inside them, so this is why we have invested in a wide range of equipment to help keep up with this constantly changing technology.

  • Free diagnostic check with every Service
  • Full Print out Available on Request
  • Coverage for most makes and models of vehicle.




Cambelt-Large - Drury Lane Services

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Where is the cambelt located?

The cam belt is usually protected by plastic covers to prevent ingress of foreign objects . It is the drive belt connecting camshaft & crankshaft .

Some people get confused between auxiliary drive belts and cam belts.


What are cambelts made from?

Cambelts are usually made from a rubber based compound to provide flexibility with a cord for strength. Rubber deteriorates over time. The belt can be damaged and its service life shortened by incorrect handling.


Getting the timing right

The Cam timing belt provides synchronisation between engine components . If fitted incorrectly the engine may fail to start or run erratically. In some cases major engine damage may occur.

Cambelt replacement can be a complex job requiring specialist skills and dedicated tools.


What causes the cam belt to fail?

  • Oil & fluid which leaks onto the belt can be injected into the belt as it runs over the pulleys, this can vary the dimensions of the belt and cause the teeth to not mesh with the pulleys.
  • Seizure or collapse of bearings of idler pulleys, pumps etc, can cause the cam belt tension to be lost allowing the belt to jump the teeth on sprockets causing loss of synchronization and usually major damage.
  • Misalignment of pulleys can also cause premature belt failure.


How often should the cambelt be replaced?

Follow the manufacturers recommended service interval for belt replacement. Most manufacturers recommend timing belt replacement between 40,000 and 120,000 miles. The driving cycle and operating environment will also affect replacement frequency.

Some vehicles may require service item replacement more frequently. Cam timing belts also deteriorate with age. A vehicle covering low annual mileage may require a timing belt change based on schedule.


How to minimise the chance of cam belt failure

Check for oil and fluid leaks onto the cam belt. Renew failing oil seals and repair leaks .

Replace the cambelt using a repair kit not just a belt.

The repair kit should contain idler bearings and tensioner. We recommend using a kit from the same manufacturer for best component matching.

Some vehicles use the cambelt to drive a water pump etc. Check these components for wear and replace if necessary because if the water pump etc fails this could cause the cambelt to break.


What damage occurs if the cam timing belt fails?

Cam timing belt failure causes loss of synchronisation between pistons and valvetrain. If the engine is of interference design collision will occur between piston and valves, this may in turn cause potential piston /conrod damage, bent or broken valves, cylinder head damage, camshaft damage, etc.

Investigation of the damage caused by a broken timing belt almost always requires engine stripdown.


Vehicle Service History

If you have just purchased a second hand car and are unsure of the vehicle service history it is wise to have the timing belt renewed as a precaution.

Many repairers will provide a reminder to customers when their cambelt needs replacing.



Petrol Injector Diagnostic Testing & Servicing

Recognise these symptoms?

  • Poor Starting
  • Poor Driveability
  • Excessive ExhaustEmissions
  • Uneven Idling
  • Lack of Power
  • Lambda Sensor Problems
  • Catalyst Exhaust Failure
  • Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) on EOBD2

Understanding the need…

On the latest generation of Lambda controlled, Fuel Injected, Engine Management Systems, correct diagnosis of the complete system is no longer an option, it’s a requirement.

As these systems are “Closed Loop” a design where all the components in the system contribute to the engine’s correct and efficient running, then the correct diagnostic programme should cover all the components related to the complete Engine Management System, not just some of them.

The Fuel Injectors and their individual performance are now one of the major components to be considered when diagnostically analysing any system for “combustion related” problems, especially if problem is related to Engine Performance, Fuel Economy, Exhaust Pollution and Lambda or Catalyst failure.

ASNU have created a concept called “Injector Diagnostics”, a Testing & Servicing programme where the injectors Fuel Distribution, Fuel Droplet Formation, Fuel Atomisation and Fuel Delivery, are all visually and physically checked and tested as an starting point, rather than a last resort. The injectors are then Ultrasonically cleaned and the rubber sealing rings, plastic protection caps and filter baskets are replaced, before re-testing, ensuring all the injectors are performing as a matched, balanced set.

Without “Injector Diagnostics”, it is impossible for garages to correctly, economically or efficiently, solve problems with Fuel Injected engines.  Servicing Injectors will also save time and money on Service and Repair bills, prolong the life of Inlet & Exhaust Valves, Piston Compression Rings, Lambda/Oxygen Sensors and the Catalytic Exhaust System.

ASNU is approved World Wide by Robert Bosch GmbH and Delphi Automotive.


  • Diagnosing injector performance
  • Before and after testing
  • Adjustable pressure
  • ASNU patented ultra-sonic cleaning process
  • Fuel SPRAY Management – spray pattern shapes and fuel atomisation are easily inspected in the ASNU display window.
  • Fuel delivery Volumes – the precise quantity of fuel delivered can be measured and compared for up to 8 top feed injectors or 6 side feed injectors at one time
  • Electronic operation – ASNU examines the injectors performance during a 10 programe option milliseconds and RPM simulation programme

Download the ASNU Brochure for more information




The rate of tread wear on your vehicle depends on numerous conditions. Vehicle speed, braking, load, cornering, tyre inflation pressures, acceleration, wheel alignment, road surface, climatic and even geographical conditions. Driving conservatively will help to prolong tyre wear.

Some tyres are so badly damaged that they must be discarded. Tyres that should never be repaired include those with tread or casing separation, tyre fabric damage which would reduce the tubeless air seal on the tyre, kinked tyres, broken tyres or exposed tyre bead wires, flex breaks, presence of an internal liquid sealant with any penetration damage through the inner tyre liner, tyre tread depth below 1.6mm, cracks in the tyre which extend into the tyre fabric, open liner splices which show exposed cords, tyre liner and first ply showing evidence of having been run flat, under inflated or overloaded tyres.

It is recommended that repairs should be undertaken only by qualified tyre technicians, because sometimes tyres with apparently minor external damage have actually sustained unseen but serious internal damage.

Drury Lane Services have a good selection of tyres in stock. We can provide advice and guidance on all your tyre requirements.

If you have any of the problems above please don’t hesitate to call us on 0161 688 7882.




Exhaust Systems carry the fumes and gases that your engine creates to the rear of your car and these gases pass through various exhaust equipment on the way. When these exhaust systems fail it’s time to change.

But how do you know when your exhaust system requires attention?

The most obvious sign that your exhaust system needs attention is the noise it makes. Holes and cracks in the exhaust caused by corrosion will allow the gases to escape before they can reach the exhaust end. These noises can range from a hissing noise, that usually means there is a crack within the exhaust system, or a blowing noise, usually indicating a larger hole.

The silencer is usually the first part of the exhaust that needs attention. This is because of its position along the exhaust pipe. This exhaust component is the furthest away from the engine and is the most likely to be corroded by pools of acidic moisture that form within it. This part of the exhaust remains cold in comparison to the rest of it and allows exhaust gases to condense and form pools of corrosive acid inside the silencer. If your silencer is damaged, you can expect to hear a loud roaring noise bellowing from the exhaust.

If you hear rattling or banging noises from under the car it could mean that the exhaust system has become misaligned or one of the rubber supporting mountings has worked itself loose. If you hear a rattling metallic noise, it usually means that something is touching the exhaust pipe or that a support bracket or clamp has come loose. Hangers and brackets hold your exhaust pipe in place. Corroded or missing brackets can cause extra damage to the exhaust system which in turn could lead to premature exhaust failure.

Other problems can be identified with a visual check. Rust found on the exhaust system may not be as serious as it first appears, but holes and cracks in the exhaust pipe can be signs of more serious problems.

If you hear any bumps, bangs, rattles or blows coming from your exhaust system bring it straight to Drury Lane Services and let one of our experienced exhaust specialists find out what the problem is.

If you have any of the problems above please don’t hesitate to call us on 0161 688 7882.




Your vehicle’s brake system has one job, to stop your vehicle.

But in order for your brakes to stop such a heavy piece of equipment, a number of important components must work precisely to achieve the required result.

Leverage, force and friction are the three factors required that will allow your vehicle to brake effectively. The leverage is supplied when the driver presses the brake pedal to activate the braking system. The force comes from the various engine components that use either the engine vacuum or a hydraulic pump to multiply the force of the leverage you applied when pressing the brake pedal. The friction comes when the brake fluid is forced down the brake lines and into the brake cylinder, which in turn forces the brakes to rub against the brake discs or the brake drums.

Drury Lane Services are experts when it comes to your brakes. We have the tools and the experience to repair or replace you brakes so you can be safe in the knowledge that your car will be as safe as it can be.

Your brakes usually give particular warning signs when they are in need of a mechanic’s advice.

Common Signs of Wear

  • A low or spongy brake pedal. This can mean there may be air in the system
  • An amber brake warning light that could signal a problem with the ABS braking system
  • A red brake warning light that could mean there is an imbalance in the braking system
  • Continuous squeals and grinding sounds. These may mean the life of your brakes is up and the need for new brakes is important
  • The thickness of the Brake shoes and drum diameter – worn brake shoes or brake drums not only remove less heat, they can cause greater brake pedal travel before your brakes are activated
  • Brake pad and Brake disc thickness – worn break pads or break discs cannot remove the extreme heat produced during braking.

These conditions can cause longer stopping distances and difficulty stopping in an emergency situation. Break discs and break drums that are too thin may become over stressed and break.

So don’t be caught out. Any time you notice any of these or other symptoms make sure you have your brakes checked immediately. We recommend that you have them inspected once a year. If you have any of the problems above please don’t hesitate to call us on 0161 688 7882.




A shock absorber is a mechanical device designed to smooth out or damp a sudden shock impulse and dissipate kinetic energy.

When a shock absorber is used in a vehicle it reduces the bouncing effect of travelling over rough ground. Without shock absorbers, your vehicle would have a bouncing ride, as energy is stored in the spring and then released to the vehicle. Control of excessive suspension movement without shock absorption requires stiffer (higher rate) springs, which would in turn give a harsh ride. Shock absorbers allow the use of soft (lower rate) springs while controlling the rate of suspension movement in response to bumps. They also, along with hysteresis in the tyre itself, damp the motion of the unsprung weight up and down on the springiness of the tyre. Since the tyre is not as soft as the springs, effective wheel bounce damping may require stiffer shocks than would be ideal for the vehicle motion alone.

There are tell-tale signs that highlight the need for attention. If your car dips or leans forward under braking or sways from side to side in windy conditions, or just feels bouncy or uncontrolled you could have faulty shock absorbers.

This can potentially lead you into a dangerous situation. Your shock absorbers keep your car stable and your tyres firmly on the road.

Don’t leave it too late. Any time you notice any of these or other symptoms have your shock absorbers checked. If you have any of the problems above please don’t hesitate to call us on 0161 688 7882.



When a clutch is working smoothly, a manual transmission is like an extension of your right arm. You have complete control over the gears. You decide when to shift and which gears to use. There’s no intervention by a computer and no isolation from the drivetrain. You’re in control and always aware of which gear you’re in.
Many people who buy sporty cars, performance cars and even trucks want the control that a manual transmission provides. A stick shift puts the fun back into driving, at least on the open road. But around town in heavy stop-and-go traffic, having to constantly ride the clutch and shift gears can be a real pain and make you wish you’d opted for an automatic – especially if the clutch is acting up.

Clutch problems can occur at almost any mileage and for a wide variety of reasons. When the clutch pedal is released and the clutch disc starts to rub against the flywheel and pressure plate, it generates friction and heat. This helps absorb the shock loading that would otherwise jolt the drivetrain every time the transmission was put into gear or shifted. A little slippage under these conditions is a good thing because it helps dampen loads that might otherwise damage gears, U-joints and CV joints.

Many clutch discs have a spring-loaded center hub for this very purpose. The springs provide a little “give” when the clutch is engaged, and also help dampen harmonics and subtle variations in the engine’s power output.





Taking this concept a step further, some vehicles use a second set of springs in a two-piece “dual mass” flywheel for essentially the same purpose. A dual mass flywheel has a series of springs mounted sideways between the primary and secondary flywheels. This provides extra vibration dampening and eliminates excessive transmission gear rattle for smoother clutch engagement and operation.

Dual mass flywheels were first used in 1987 on Chevrolet, Ford and GMC diesel-powered light trucks, and are found today on a number of trucks and even some European sports and luxury cars.

Dual mass flywheels can be expensive to replace. Because of this, some aftermarket suppliers have come out with conventional one-piece solid flywheels that can be installed in place of an original equipment dual mass flywheel. A solid flywheel can save you some money, but the trade-off may be increased drivetrain harshness and vibration.

Some OEMs caution against replacing a dual mass flywheel with a solid flywheel because it may contribute to premature transmission failure (due to increased shock loading of the gears).





No clutch will last forever. The facings on the clutch disc wear as the miles accumulate. Stop-and-go city driving with lots of shifting is obviously harder on the clutch than open highway driving. Pulling a trailer, off-roading and aggressive driving can also accelerate clutch wear.

The worst thing any driver can do is ride the clutch. Slipping the clutch excessively when starting out or when creeping along in traffic sends the temperature of the clutch soaring. If the facings get too hot, they may start to burn giving off an odor similar to burnt toast. If the clutch isn’t given a chance to cool, the disc may be ruined along with the flywheel and/or pressure plate.

When the clutch disc becomes worn, the reduction in thickness may reduce the clamping force exerted by the pressure plate. Most diaphragm clutches actually exert more pressure as the disc wears due to the geometry of the spring and release mechanism. But once the disc is worn beyond a certain point, pressure starts to drop, increasing the risk of slipping under load. With older coil spring-style clutch covers, pressure drops in direct proportion to disc wear.

When a clutch starts to slip, the slippage will be most noticeable when the engine is under load, as when lugging at low speed in a high gear, when driving up a hill, when accelerating to pass another vehicle or when towing a trailer. The more the clutch slips, the hotter it gets and the more it wears. This accelerates the problem even more and may result in additional damage to the flywheel and pressure plate.

Another cause of premature clutch failure is oil contamination from a leaky rear main crankshaft seal, transmission input shaft seal or engine oil leak. Oil on the clutch facings will cause them to slip and grab unevenly. The result is typically chattering and jerking when the clutch is first engaged, and slipping when the clutch is under load.

Often, an apparent clutch problem really isn’t the clutch, but the clutch linkage or something else. Many late-model vehicles have a hydraulic clutch linkage with a master cylinder attached to the clutch pedal and a slave cylinder on the bellhousing. The internal piston seals on the master and slave cylinder can develop leaks that allow a loss of pressure when the clutch pedal is depressed. This may prevent the clutch from disengaging or allow it to engage prematurely (as when sitting at a stop light with the pedal all the way in). The pedal may also feel soft and have less than normal resistance. Slave cylinders develop leaks more often than master cylinders because the slave cylinder is the lowest point in the system. Any rust or dirt in the hydraulic fluid is therefore more apt to settle in the slave cylinder where it can cause seal problems.





Diagnosing clutch problems is difficult because a lot of different problems can cause the same kind of symptoms. Chattering or grabbing when the clutch is engaged can also be caused by burned or glazed linings, a warped or grooved flywheel, missing flywheel dowel pins, a worn pilot bearing/bushing, a worn bearing retainer, worn or damaged clutch disc or input shaft splines, bent or broken drive straps on the clutch, a bent or distorted clutch disc, a loose clutch cover or even missing flywheel dowel pins.

External causes of clutch chatter include loose or broken engine or transmission mounts, misalignment of the chassis and drivetrain components, worn or damaged U-joints or CV joints, a loose transmission crossmember, a worn or bent release fork, or loose rear left spring bushings or spring U-bolt nuts.

If the vehicle is equipped with a dual mass flywheel, a bad flywheel may be the cause of the slippage. Carefully examine the old clutch for heat marks on the pressure plate, disintegrated disc friction material and contamination of the friction material from external oil leaks. If no such evidence is found, the problem is the flywheel.

If a newly installed clutch is slipping, the most likely causes would be oil or grease contamination, incorrect release system adjustment, a defective cable adjuster, a blocked clutch master cylinder port or binding slave cylinder, a misaligned or improperly installed release bearing, or improper flywheel machining of a step or cup flywheel.





Clutch noise is another problem that may be tricky to pinpoint. If a squealing or chirping noise appears or goes away when the clutch pedal is depressed, the cause may be a bad release bearing. Other causes include a bad pilot bushing, a worn or defective input shaft bearing in the transmission, a worn, bent or improperly lubricated release fork, a worn input shaft, improper disc installation, misalignment, damaged bearing retainer, loose flywheel bolts, damaged disc splines, or worn stop pins or broken damper.

  • A growling or grinding noise when the clutch is engaged may be due to a bad transmission input shaft bearing.
  • A squealing sound that occurs when the clutch pedal is depressed and held is usually caused by a bad pilot bearing or bushing.
  • A chirping noise that intensifies when the pedal is slowly depressed would indicate a bad release bearing.

If you hear chirping while idling in neutral and the noise goes away when the pedal is slowly depressed, the fork/pivot ball contact point is making the noise.





If the clutch does not release completely when the clutch pedal is fully depressed, the disc will continue to turn the input shaft. This may prevent the driver from shifting the transmission from neutral into gear, cause grinding when the gears are changed, or cause the engine to stall when coming to a stop.

A clutch that won’t release may have a misadjusted linkage, a broken or stretched release cable, a leaky or defective slave or master clutch cylinder, air in the hydraulic line or cylinders, corroded, damaged or improperly lubricated input shaft splines, a worn pilot bearing/bushing, a worn bearing retainer, bent or worn release fork or pivot ball, bent clutch drive straps, bent or distorted clutch disc, a clutch disc that was installed backwards, or mismatched clutch components (if the clutch was just replaced).

Other things that can cause the clutch to drag or not release include heavy gear oil in the transmission that’s too thick for cold weather, defective or worn clutch pedal bushings or brackets, or flexing in the firewall or any release component attachment point.




Replacing a clutch is a labor-intensive job because the transmission or transaxle must be separated from the engine. So, before you invest a lot of labor in a clutch job, make sure the clutch is really at fault and needs to be replaced. And if it does, be sure to inspect the entire clutch system once you’ve disassembled everything and have the clutch out to see if any additional parts need to be replaced. Better to do a thorough job once than a half-hearted job twice.

In high-mileage vehicles, you should probably replace the entire clutch assembly with a kit that includes a new or remanufactured clutch disc, pressure plate and release bearing – and pilot bushing if one is used.

If a low-mileage vehicle has a clutch problem, you may only have to replace the individual component that failed. It depends on the failure and what caused it. If the disc in an otherwise good clutch is contaminated with oil, replacing the disc (and repairing the oil leak) should be all that’s needed to get the vehicle back on the road.

One thing to watch out for when doing clutch work is poor quality remanufactured parts. On many vehicles the height of the spring fingers and release mechanism is critical for proper clutch operation. If the clutch is not remanufactured to OEM specifications, it may not function properly or fail prematurely. So, don’t take unnecessary risks to save a few extra bucks. Install quality parts from a reputable supplier who has a good track record for clutches that work and don’t come back to bite you.

Another item that should also be replaced is the release cable on older vehicles with this type of linkage. On high-mileage vehicles with a hydraulic linkage, you should also recommend replacing the master clutch and slave cylinders, too, even if they are not leaking. These parts don’t last forever either. If the clutch has reached the end of the road, chances are the rest of the system’s components are nearing the end of their service life, too. It’s better to restore the entire clutch system to like-new condition at one time than to fix one part now and maybe have to fix another part when it fails later on.

Clutch flywheel - Drury Lane Services



The flywheel should always be resurfaced or replaced when a clutch is changed. Oil, dirt, grease, warpage, cracks or grooves on a flywheel can cause clutch problems. So too will excessive runout. Remember to mark the index position of the flywheel before you remove it so it can be reinstalled in the same position as before. This is essential on externally balanced engines. New bolts are also recommended. Use a torque wrench to tighten to specifications.

If a flywheel is cracked or damaged or cannot be resurfaced, replacement is required.

With stepped flywheels, equal amounts of metal must be machined off both steps to maintain the same relative height difference between the two. If only the wear surface is machined, it will reduce the pressure exerted by the pressure plate against the clutch disc.

With dual mass flywheels, resurfacing is not recommended on BMW or Porsche. If the flywheel is worn, it must be replaced.

Use a pilot tool to align the clutch disc to the flywheel when the clutch is bolted in place. Eyeballing it isn’t good enough because the transmission input shaft may not slide into place when you try to maneuver it into position. Tighten the pressure plate bolts gradually in a star pattern to avoid distorting the clutch. Never use air tools.

Lightly lubricate the splines on the transaxle input shaft and the release fork pivot, and make sure the new release bearing is properly installed in the release fork.

When reinstalling a rear-wheel drive transmission, support the weight of the tranny until it is bolted in place. If you let it hang while the input shaft is engaged with the clutch, it may bend or distort the hub in the clutch disc and prevent it from releasing.

Proper adjustment of the clutch linkage is also a must after replacing a clutch. Follow the procedure in the manual and make sure the amount of pedal play is correct.

Once the transmission or tranaxle has been remated to the engine, check the oil level and add the proper lubricant if low.

The job isn’t finished until you test drive the vehicle to make sure the clutch is working properly and the transmission shifts smoothly.


We provide Diagnostics and Repair services to customers throughout Oldham (Chadderton, Royton, Saddleworth, Moorside, Lees, Springhead, etc), Tameside (Ashton, Droyslden, Mossley, Stalybridge, etc), Rochdale (Milnrow, Newhey, Bamford, Castleton, etc), Manchester (Newton Heath, Failsworth, Miles Platting, Beswick, Moston, Middleton, etc) and beyond.